The Breakdown: Skateboard Parts Explained

When you step on a skateboard, you're not just riding a piece of wood, you're standing on a finely-tuned machine. Whether you’re building your first custom setup or just curious about what’s under your feet, understanding each component of your board can seriously level up your ride.

Skateboard Deck

The skateboard deck is the flat wooden board you stand on, arguably the soul of your setup. Most decks are made from seven-ply Canadian maple, known for its strength-to-weight ratio, pop, and durability. While bamboo, carbon fiber, and hybrid constructions are becoming more popular, maple remains the gold standard.

Decks come in various widths, usually between 7.5" and 8.5". A wider deck provides more stability and control, especially for vert skating or cruising. A narrower one is lighter and easier to flip, making it ideal for technical street tricks. The length, nose and tail shape, and the amount of concave (the curve across the width) all affect how the board performs. More concave means more grip underfoot and better board feel for tricks. Flatter decks feel more stable and surfy.

Then there’s the shape. Most standard boards are “popsicle” shaped with a symmetrical, rounded nose and tail. You’ll also find shaped decks with squared-off ends or directional designs, which are often preferred for bowl or pool skating.

Trucks

Mounted underneath your deck are the skateboard trucks, which are metal components that allow your board to turn and also bear the brunt of impacts and grinds. Each truck consists of several key parts: the baseplate, which bolts to the deck; the hanger, which is the main T-shaped body; the axle, which runs through the hanger and holds your wheels; and the kingpin, a large bolt that compresses the bushings and allows the truck to pivot when you lean.

The width of your trucks should match the width of your deck as closely as possible. If they’re too narrow, your board will feel unstable. If they’re too wide, you’ll lose responsiveness.

Truck height also matters. Low trucks keep you closer to the ground and offer more control for flip tricks, especially with smaller wheels. High trucks allow for larger wheels and are better for carving or transition skating. Medium-height trucks are a balanced option, perfect for general all-around use.

Trucks don’t just steer, they grind. The hanger is what you’ll be sliding on rails, ledges, and coping. Heavier-duty trucks with thicker hangers are better suited to aggressive skating. For a smoother turning experience, consider upgrading your bushings, which come in different hardness levels to suit your weight and riding style.

Wheels 

Your skateboard wheels determine how fast you go, how well you grip, and what kind of surfaces you can ride. They’re made of polyurethane and come in a range of diameters and hardness levels, measured in durometer.

Smaller wheels, around 50 to 54mm, are common in street skating. They accelerate quickly and keep your center of gravity low, making them perfect for tricks and ledges. Larger wheels, 55mm and up, roll faster and smoother over rough surfaces. These are ideal for cruising, bowls, and vert ramps.

Durometer ratings tell you how hard or soft a wheel is. A typical street wheel is around 99A, which is hard enough to slide and durable for skateparks. Softer wheels, usually between 78A and 87A, offer more grip and shock absorption, which is why they're often found on cruisers or filmer setups.

Wheels also differ in shape and contact patch; the part that touches the ground. Wider contact patches grip better. Narrower ones slide more easily. Some wheels have rounded edges for smoother slides, while others have sharper lips for extra grip in bowls or downhill.

Bearings

Inside each wheel are two bearings; tiny, precision-engineered rings made of steel or ceramic. They allow your wheels to spin freely around the axle. Each bearing is rated, somewhat loosely, using the ABEC scale, from ABEC-1 to ABEC-9. Higher numbers generally mean tighter tolerances and smoother spins, but ABEC ratings aren’t everything. Some high-end skate bearings don’t even use the scale.

Ceramic bearings are more expensive but offer advantages. They’re lighter, rust-resistant, and retain speed better than steel. Regular maintenance, like cleaning and lubricating, can greatly extend the life and performance of your bearings.

Don’t forget spacers and speed rings. These help keep your bearings aligned and reduce friction between the bearing and the axle nut or hanger.

Grip Tape

On top of the deck, you’ll find grip tape; a gritty, sandpaper-like material that gives your shoes traction. Without it, your feet would slip right off your board. Standard black grip is the go-to, but nowadays you can get custom colours, graphics, die-cut patterns, or even clear grip to show off your deck artwork.

Applying grip is an art in itself. Press it down evenly, trim the edges with a razor blade, and file down the sides for a smooth finish. Some skaters cut patterns for added style or to reduce air bubbles.

Hardware

Often overlooked, the hardware consists of the bolts and nuts that attach your trucks to the deck. A standard set includes eight bolts and nuts, usually between 7/8” and 1” long. If you’re adding riser pads to avoid wheel bite with bigger wheels, you’ll need longer hardware to accommodate the extra space.

Some sets include one or two coloured bolts to help you quickly identify the front (nose) of your board. That’s especially handy during fast-paced trick sessions.

Skateboards are more than just the sum of their parts, they’re built to match your style. Whether you're into flip tricks, park shredding, or cruising the streets, having the right setup makes all the difference.